Do my skincare products really work?

Ever wonder if the active ingredients in your skincare products really work? Are they truly sinking into your skin or just sitting on top? You’re not alone, this is one of the most common skincare questions. The truth is, our skin is designed as a protective barrier first. In this post, we’ll explore how and why skincare ingredients can (or cannot) absorb into the skin. By understanding the science of skin absorption, you’ll see why choosing the right products and applying them correctly are critical in making the most of your home care.

Your Skin Barrier: The Gatekeeper

Your skin’s outer layer, the stratum corneum, is designed to protect you. It keeps harmful substances out and locks moisture in. But this also means that not all ingredients can pass through easily. The stratum corneum is made up of flattened skin cells, surrounded by a lipid (oil) barrier that acts like a wall.

Why is absorption so limited? The stratum corneum’s 'oils' are water-resistant. That means water-based or large molecules in skincare have a hard time slipping through. It’s a bit like trying to mix oil and water, unless your product is formulated just right, it will simply sit on the surface.

So how do we get skincare ingredients to penetrate?

Despite the strong barrier, certain ingredients do find their way in – but only via specific pathways. Skin scientists describe three main routes by which ingredients can penetrate the epidermis:

Intercellular Pathway (between skin cells)

This is the main route for most skincare ingredients. The actives pass between the skin cells, moving through the lipid (oil) layer that surrounds them. Oil-soluble ingredients, like nourishing oils or vitamins, are easily absorbed here because they blend with the skin’s natural oils.

Transcellular Pathway (through the skin cells)

This pathway goes directly through the skin cells (the 'bricks'). It’s a tougher route since ingredients have to cross through lipid-rich cell membranes.

Only very small, water-friendly ingredients can manage this, but even they must navigate the skin’s oily barriers.

Trans-appendageal Pathway (through follicles & glands)

Ingredients can also enter the skin through pores, hair follicles, or sweat glands. This is an easier route for larger or water-based ingredients to travel through, but it’s limited because follicles and glands only cover about 0.1% of the skin’s surface.

Why Some Products Just Sit on the Surface

If a product’s formulation isn’t designed for penetration, its active ingredients could be merely sitting on the surface and providing little if any benefit at all. Many over-the-counter creams do moisturise the stratum corneum (which is still beneficial for dryness), but their active molecules may never reach the living cells where those skincare products could truly work. Factors like large molecular size, incorrect pH, or a base that the skin doesn’t 'recognise' can all prevent absorption.

Think of it this way: you can have the most amazing active ingredient (whether it’s vitamin C, retinol, peptides, etc.), but if it’s not delivered in the right form, it’s like having a key that doesn’t fit the lock. The ingredient just bounces off the skin barrier. This is why the vehicle or base formula of a product is critical. As one source puts it, an effective product must have 'an appropriate delivery system and base' to get those actives into the epidermis. In other words, the recipe matters as much as the ingredient. This is where a brand’s formulation philosophy can make a huge difference – and it’s exactly where DMK’s approach shines.

DMK’s Transepidermal Delivery – Working With Your Skin

DMK (Danne Montague-King) is a skincare line famous for its concept of 'Remove, Rebuild, Protect, Maintain' and its paramedical approach to skin. What does that mean? In simple terms, DMK doesn’t believe in just masking problems or giving a quick superficial fix. Instead, it focuses on changing the skin from within, restoring natural function and health.

Using a cream only on the surface will not truly revise a skin condition; to really improve skin, you need to alter how the skin functions beneath the surface. This philosophy drives how DMK formulates their products for maximum absorption and efficacy.

Transepidermal delivery is at the heart of DMK’s home prescriptive products. Transepidermal literally means through the skin. DMK creams aren’t meant to just sit on top as a barrier; they are formulated to travel through the epidermis, carrying their active nutrients with them. In fact, with the exception of one moisture-sealant product, all DMK creams are designed to be transepidermal. Here’s how they do it:

Water-integrative formulas

Uniquely, DMK creams are made to blend with water on the skin. When you apply a DMK cream, you’re often instructed to spritz the skin with DMK’s Herbal & Mineral Mist or have a damp face. This is not just for fun – the water actually acts as a delivery vehicle, helping to carry the cream’s ingredients through that tough stratum corneum into the epidermis. It’s like turning the key ingredients into a form your skin can drink in.

Small, skin-friendly molecules

DMK formulates products for high penetration by using smaller molecular structures wherever possible. As we noted, smaller particles penetrate better. The advantage of this transepidermal design is that DMK can get the active substances right down to the skin’s basal (reproductive) layer where new skin cells are generated. By delivering actives to the source of cell growth, they can stimulate repair and regeneration where it matters most. This is a key reason DMK treatments can revise skin – they’re not just plumping up dead surface cells; they’re nourishing the living cells that will become your future skin.

Slow-release delivery

Ever notice how some products seem to stop working after an hour or two? DMK avoids this by engineering a slow release of ingredients. Their transepidermal delivery allows actives to be stored in the skin for up to eight hours, gradually feeding your skin cells. This means the serum or cream you applied in the morning is still hard at work throughout the day, providing a reservoir of goodness instead of a short burst. Consistent, sustained delivery = more effective results.

Proper base (no fluffy fillers)

Remember how an appropriate base is critical? DMK has taken that to heart. The base of all DMK nourishing crèmes is a carefully researched isolated soy protein base, which contains all eight essential amino acids your skin needs. This base is biocompatible with the skin. By itself, soy protein can bond with water and has a structure the skin’s chemistry welcomes. When active ingredients are added to this base, the result is a formula that can penetrate effectively and nourish the skin cells. DMK emphasises that there’s no one 'miracle' ingredient – it’s about a synergy of ingredients in the right delivery system. Every botanical extract or vitamin in the formula is chosen not just for its benefit, but for how it complements the others and how it can be delivered. The end goal: get these actives into the epidermis (not just on it) so they can actually do their job.

Skin-identical chemistry (biocompatible)

They use what they call 'skin-identical' ingredients – a blend of amino acids, proteins, lipids and water that mirrors the composition of healthy skin. Because these ingredients look familiar to the skin, your skin’s barrier basically says, “Hey, I know this – it belongs here!” and lets them in more readily. A great example is the DMK Seba-E oil, which is designed to emulate the natural oils and moisture factors of your skin’s protective acid mantle. By replacing what’s missing in the skin with a similar botanical version, Seba-E helps restore the barrier and allows other active ingredients to penetrate better behind it. Another example: apricot kernel oil, found in some DMK formulations, has a composition very similar to human sebum (our skin’s own oil). This similarity means it can readily absorb into the epidermis and deliver its nutrients, rather than just sitting greasily on top. In short, DMK’s formulations are biocompatible – they speak the same language as your skin. This biomimetic approach (imitating natural biological processes) is a big trend in advanced skincare, and DMK has been a pioneer in using it to achieve real results.

Key Benefits of DMK’s Approach

Deep penetration to target cells

DMK’s transepidermal delivery gets the good stuff down to where new cells are forming. This direct delivery to the source means treatments can trigger positive changes in your skin’s structure and function, not just surface texture.

Long-Lasting Action

Ingredients are released slowly and can be stored in the skin for hours, so your skin stays nourished and supported well after application. It’s like a time-release supplement for your face!

Skin-mimicking Formulas

Using skin-identical building blocks (vitamins, amino acids, lipids, etc.) makes the products biocompatible – your skin cells recognise these ingredients as friendly and use them effectively. This reduces the chance of rejection or irritation and maximises absorption.

Scientifically backed & balanced

DMK formulations are complex and precise. They avoid throwaway fillers and overly large molecules that can’t penetrate. Every ingredient has a purpose and is included in the right percentage to work synergistically with the skin. The result is a range of products that are paramedical-grade – meaning they’re formulated to instigate real, lasting changes in the skin at the cellular level.

Works with your skin, not just on It

Perhaps most reassuring, DMK’s products work with your body’s natural processes, not against them. Traditional cosmetic products mainly sit on the surface (they treat the symptom, not the cause). In contrast, DMK’s bioadaptive approach supports your skin’s own renewal mechanisms – enabling true skin revision. As a paramedical skincare system, DMK works on the structure and function of the skin itself, whereas standard cosmetic treatments only work on the surface. This is why you’ll often hear that DMK doesn’t treat skin “types” but rather skin conditions. Whether it’s aging, acne, pigmentation or sensitivity, the aim is to restore the skin’s balance and function to a healthy state, so that your skin naturally resolves the issue from within.

Confidence in Results – The Power of Skin Revision

Understanding all this science might seem a bit technical, but here’s the bottom

line for you as a client: when skincare is formulated to mimic the skin and deliver actives deep into the tissue, you get better results.

It’s that simple. DMK’s line is a great example of a scientifically backed, results-driven solution. Instead of just giving a temporary glow, these products are busy behind the scenes training your skin to perform optimally – regenerating new cells, strengthening the barrier, balancing pigmentation, clearing congestion, you name it. The skin is an incredibly regenerative organ when given the right tools, and DMK’s job is to supply those tools in the right way.

In the end, investing in skincare that actually penetrates and does what it promises leads to healthier, more radiant skin. That glow isn’t cosmetic – it’s coming from a revitalised skin function underneath. Clients often report that with consistent use of DMK Home Prescriptives, their skin not only looks better on the surface but feels and behaves like healthier skin – less irritation, more balance, quicker healing, and a youthful vitality. This is the outcome of working with your skin’s natural processes.

So next time you apply your skincare, remember the journey those ingredients have to take. If you’re using DMK products, you can be confident they have the map to navigate your skin’s barrier and deliver the goods where they’re needed. It’s skincare that doesn’t just sit on top and hope for the best – it actively makes a change from within, which is the essence of true skin revision. Your skin recognises DMK’s formula as its own, and the results speak for themselves: a stronger, healthier complexion that glows from the inside out.

Empowered with this knowledge, you can approach your skincare routine with confidence – knowing what goes on does go in (when formulated right) and that you’re giving your skin the very best. Here’s to skin that’s not only beautiful on the outside, but thriving from within! 💖

As always, if you need any help with your routine or have questions, feel free to reach out. We are always happy to chat skin!

📞 1300 056 657

📍 Shop 50A, Winston Hills Mall, Caroline Chisholm Dr, Sydney

🌐 drmlskinclinic.com.au